Folegandros

Folegandros is a charming little island, happily unaware of that there is such a thing as stress. The landscape is barren, woodless and majestically beautiful. It is an ideal island for hiking and the beaches are not so bad either. The icing on this tasty cake is Chora, the largest village on the island and one of the most romantic in the island world. If you have been to Amorgos, a smile of recognition will shine on you face when you see Folegandros. Sure, the mountains are not as high, but the sense of natures' power is just as strong. In its places, the cliffs rush straight down into the ocean. If you gaze out over the sea from Chora you will be stricken by the fabulous panoramic view, if you turn your eyes to the cliffs you will get butterflies in your stomach.

Getting there
In the summer of 2006 there were daily trips by boat to Santorini, Naxos, Milos, Sikinos and Piraeus (Athens). The boat connection to Paros, Syros and Ios are also good.

Getting around
Local buses ply the road between Karavostasis–Chora–Ano Meri. When a boat arrives, the bus also goes back and forth to the harbour. Motorbikes can be rented in Chora and in Karavostasis. Cars for rent are only found in Chora. A bathing boat goes from the harbour to the beaches Kartego, Angali, Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki. From Angali beach, you can catch another bathing boat to Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki. You buy your ticket on board.

Villages
There are three villages: Karavostasis (the harbour), Chora and Ano Meria. Chora is one of the finest villages in the Cycladic islands, while Ano Meria is one of the most rural.

Karavostasis
Karavostasis, the harbour village of Folegandros, is a quite nice acquaintance. Here, most things are within walking distance: Supermarket, travel agency, motorbike rental outlet, bakery, several tavernas and a bunch of pensions. There are also many beaches close by.

Chora
The charming and car-free Chora is the cream of the many nice villages in the Greek island world. It is like a model for how a Greek village should look like, like the ones we see on postcards and in travel magazines: narrow alleys where sugar white limewashed houses with blue doors and shutters crowd with cosy squares and pleasant tavernas, marble stairs where cats lie half asleep, cafés where old men sit and discuss – and on top of it all: flourishing bougainvilleas hanging over the houses and alleys.

Ano Meria
Ano Meria is located 6 kilometres (3.7 miles) from Chora. To get here you drive a slippery and narrow road. Near the centre of the island, it is so narrow that you see the sea on both sides and there is always a howling wind just there. The village itself is curious: it almost seems like a giant picked up a bunch of houses and threw them there at random. There are a couple of tavernas and just a few rooms to rent. Do not miss the nice folk museum right ahead of the village.

Beaches
The beaches on Folegandros are of good quality and the water is delightful. Vardia in the harbour and Angali are the most popular beaches, the best one is Kartego. Nudism is common in many places. Here are reviews of some of the beaches. There are more in our extended guide to the island (in Swedish only).

Angali
Angali beach has more visitors than any other beach on Folegandros and there are many reasons for this, primarily it is very nice beach with bright fine sand and crystal-clear shimmering blue water. Just a few metres to the left of the main beach there is a little beach surrounded by rocks. There are a few pensions and two tavernas here.

Agios Nikolaos
In a little nice protected bay just about twenty minutes walk from Angali, lie Agios Nikolaos. The sand is mixed with pebbles, the water is clear and it is a good place for snorkelling. Agios Nikolaos attracts many nudists and is considered the official nudist beach of Folegandros. The taverna above the beach does not only offer a nice lunch and cold beer, the view is also worth paying for.

Sights
Folegandros has no sights, in the ordinary sense of the word. But who will miss temples and archaeological excavations when the island itself is a sight? The Chrysospilia cave would be a big sight if it was not so hard to get to – it can only be reached from the sea. The sightseeing boats stop below the cave, but you are not allowed to enter. Make sure you do not miss the sunset as seen from the Pangia church above Chora. It is magical.

Accomodation
The hotels and pensions are generally on a high standard. During low- and middle seasons, people with rooms for rent will meet up in the harbour. It is hard to find roof over your head during high season, unless you book in advance. So where should you stay? Well, it all depends on what you like to be near – the nightlife in Chora or the beaches in the harbour. I myself prefer Chora, as do most people, but you are not stranded if you stay in the harbour, the bus trip to Chora just takes a few minutes. For those who seek the ultimate calmness there are a couple of pensions by Angali beach.

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© 1997 - 2006 Janne Eklund / KALIMERA